1. The core principles and advantages of screen printing process
Principle: Through the screen plate stretched on the screen frame (the mesh area is permeable to ink, and the non-pattern area is blocked by photosensitive glue), the ink is squeezed through the mesh with a scraper to transfer the pattern to the surface of the label material, and part of the ink penetrates the fiber to form a solidified layer.
Core advantages:
Super strong fastness: The ink is tightly combined with the material, resistant to friction (can withstand 500 times + friction test), and resistant to water washing (no fading after immersion in boiling water). It is the preferred process for high-frequency wear scenes such as workwear and jeans.
Color expression: The ink layer thickness can reach 0.1-0.3mm, the color is saturated and bright (Pantone color number restoration degree 90%+), especially suitable for high-contrast, pure color block patterns (such as retro brand LOGO).
Wide material compatibility: Fabric (cotton/linen/chemical fiber), leather, rubber, PVC and other hard materials can be printed, and can even be attached to concave and convex surfaces (such as woven label textures).
2. Disassembly of the entire process: 7 steps to achieve high-strength labels
Screen production
Screen selection: Select the mesh (80-300 mesh) according to the pattern accuracy, use 200 mesh or more for fine text, and 120 mesh for color blocks.
Photosensitive: Apply photosensitive glue to the screen, cover the film for exposure (UV light cures the non-pattern area), and form a hollow pattern after washing and development.
Ink preparation
Choose ink according to the material:
Cotton label: Use water-based ink (environmentally friendly, soft and not stiff);
Leather/nylon: Use solvent-based ink (strong adhesion, but requires ventilation and curing);
Outdoor label: Add wear-resistant additives (such as silica particles).
Positioning and trial printing
Fix the label material with a positioning pin, and try printing 1-2 sheets first to adjust the scraper pressure (1-3kg) and angle (45°-60°) to ensure that the ink is even and there is no bottom penetration.
Formal printing
The scraper scrapes across the screen at a uniform speed (speed 5-10cm/s), and the ink is deposited on the surface of the material through the mesh to form a 0.1-0.3mm thick ink layer.
Curing treatment
Natural drying (24 hours) or high-temperature drying (120℃×15 minutes) allows the resin components in the ink to cross-link with the fibers to improve washability.
Quality inspection and correction
Check whether there are missed prints and burrs. A small number of defects can be manually reprinted, and large-area problems require re-plate making.
Post-processing process
If higher protection is required, drip plastic (PVC glue curing) or lamination (hot-pressed PET film) can be superimposed to form a double-firm structure of “ink + protective layer”.
3. Key process parameters and pitfall avoidance guide
| Parameter dimensions | Optimal settings | Consequences of errors |
| Screen mesh | Text: 200-300 mesh; Color blocks: 80-120 mesh | Too low mesh count will cause blurry text, too high mesh count will cause ink to penetrate |
| Scraper hardness | 60-70 Shore A (medium hard rubber) | Too soft mesh count will cause ink to accumulate, too hard mesh count will cause printing to leak |
| Ink viscosity | 2000-5000 cps (rotational viscometer) | Too low viscosity will cause color to penetrate, too high viscosity will cause screen blockage |
| Curing temperature | Water-based ink: 150℃×10 minutes | Insufficient temperature will cause ink to fall off, too high temperature will cause the material to turn yellow |
4. Classic application scenarios and cases
Levi’s red flag label adopts screen printing + hot stamping process: thick red ink is applied to form a three-dimensional touch, and the edge is hot-stamped with silver to outline the outline. It still does not fade after 10 stone washings.
Workwear jacket washing label
Carhartt WIP uses white screen printing on canvas labels. The ink is added with wear-resistant additives to keep it clear even if the workwear is frequently rubbed.
Retro fashion brand woven label
SupremeBox Logo woven label: first weave the white base fabric, then use screen printing red ink. The ink penetrates the gaps in the weaving thread, which has a more retro and old-fashioned feel than directly weaving it in.
Outdoor equipment wear-resistant label
The North Face jacket inner label: black screen printing + transparent drop plastic coating, which is both waterproof and resistant to nail scratches, suitable for frequent outdoor washing instructions.
5. Cost and efficiency comparison (taking 1000 labels as an example)
Single plate cost: Screen production fee is 200-500 yuan (depending on the complexity of the size), suitable for batch production (more than 500 pieces to dilute the cost).
Production efficiency: Semi-automatic machines can print 500-800 pieces per hour, and fully automatic production lines can reach 2000 pieces/hour, which is 3-5 times faster than digital direct printing.
Cost-effectiveness: The cost of small batches (<500 pieces) is higher than that of thermal transfer, but the larger the batch, the lower the cost. When the number is more than 1000, the cost of a single label can be controlled at 0.1-0.3 yuan.
6. Advanced technology: screen printing process + special effects
Thick plate printing (three-dimensional convex feeling)
Multiple superimposed printing (2-3 layers of ink) forms a three-dimensional texture of more than 0.5mm, which is suitable for retro brands to make “embossed LOGO” (such as Dickies collar label).
Cracked ink effect
After printing, the ink shrinks and cracks when it dries naturally, forming a vintage texture, which is often used for rock-style T-shirt labels.
Fluorescent/luminous overlay
First print the base color, then use the screen to overprint fluorescent ink (such as yellow background + orange fluorescent text), which is eye-catching in sunlight and glows in the dark, suitable for outdoor brands.
FAQ
Screen printing is favored for its ability to produce vibrant, opaque colors and its exceptional durability. Unlike digital printing, screen printing applies a thicker layer of ink, which results in colors that remain sharp and saturated even on dark or textured fabrics. Additionally, the ink used in screen printing bonds deeply with the material fibers, making the labels highly resistant to fading, cracking, or peeling—even after repeated industrial washing cycles.
The process begins with “pre-press,” where a stencil (or screen) is created for each color in the design using a light-sensitive emulsion. Once the screens are ready, the “printing” phase involves squeegeeing ink through the mesh onto the label material. Finally, the labels must go through a “curing” process, typically using heat, to ensure the ink sets permanently. This systematic approach allows for high-volume production while maintaining consistent quality across every individual label.